Lions Trail Adventure

 

 It has been on my mind to visit Shirley Meadows, which is the site of Alta Sierra, Kern County’s ski resort. After the recent rains and mountain snow it would be perfect timing, I thought. Alas! The road to the place needed chains and snow tires. Lacking both I had to give up on this destination, at least for now. Instead decided to explore another road where we hadn’t been before but heard about it from a friend. Set out yesterday (Saturday) around 10 am.

The Caliente-Bodfish Road, often referred to locally as the Lions Trail. The road leading up the Tehachapi hills to Caliente was familiar. However from there ahead the route was completely new to me.

On the outskirts of the small town of Caliente the road bifurcates into a Y junction , the lower one is the Caliente Creek Road, higher one to the left goes to Bodfish hence called Caliente Bodfish Road. This latter route starts to climb right away from that bifurcation. We saw several bikers that morning heading up the steep slopes of the Piute Mountains. Seeing their tenacity for that grueling ride I felt ashamed that I had considered my drive to be challenging! Apparently the Lions Trail Loop is very popular amongst serious bikers. 

Along the steep ascending route there were several vistas of the canyon and valleys on either side. There were pockets of snow seen in the meadows soon after starting the climb. The snow pockets kept getting substantial with the altitude but weren’t any on the road itself. The nine mile ascent took us past Rankin Ranch which is a huge family owned property spread across 31,000 acres. From spring through fall the place hosts visitors and is known for its hospitality. As we parked along the road to take pictures at the entrance of the ranch a lonesome light colored cow with black spots on her body who was grazing on the ranch premises looked up to see where the sound came from. She was a good 200 or more feet away from us and inside the fenced property while we were outside on the road. As soon as we began to walk up to the road sign she was startled and ran deeper into the woods and stood between the trees measuring our moves. One more step forward from me, not even in her direction, and she disappeared completely.

The bikers usually take a loop from this point turning right on to the Walker Basin Road that meets the Caliente Creek Road returning to Caliente. 

We carried on past the expanse of the Walker Basin which was home to several cattle ranches and farms surrounded by snow capped mountains. There was  tilling underway in the farms and lots of cattle and horses roaming around the properties. This stretch of land is also known to have free range cattle roaming on the roads but much to our relief we didn’t encounter any of those. I did spot a very handsome bird on a magnificent tree as I drove past this area. Not sure if it was a hawk or an eagle but sure was a big and beautiful one. I pulled over to take a picture. It looked at me sharply as I held my phone camera. Then took off from that tree, only to perch on the top of another, still in full view from where I was parked. Almost like it was trying to mimick me, take my picture here , and here , and here! 

This vast area is/was the homeland of the Kawaiisu Native American people. These were one of the earliest inhabitants and lived in the spirit of being caretakers of the land. They knew how to use the native vegetation for medicinal purposes as well as for food. They hunted only enough for food, and not for sports. They burned down invasive vegetation so there would be plenty grassland for deer to feed and remained grateful for their food. 

They were skilled in several ways. All their tools were handmade out of rocks, obsidian and other minerals found locally. They made clothing out of animal hide, rabbit fur, and tule. They knew weaving with exquisite patterns and made their huts out of local trees and grass and other materials. The baskets they would weave out of tule and other material are distinct from other tribes and a testament to their advanced artistic abilities. 

As we carried on further, reminded of these indigenous people who respected the resources of the land like no other people who came after them. We passed through the mountains with more snow on the sides of the road. My mind was taking note of the diverse vegetation along the way. There were several kinds of oaks and juniper and brushes. A large portion of the tall trees lay barren in winter yet there was a sizable proportion of vegetation that had foliage, some even with flowers . 

Suddenly, and quite to my astonishment, I saw a sign that read Havilah !  Not many people know about it in the present day. Yet it is one of great historic importance. During the California Gold Rush it was Havilah that was the Kern County seat, much before Bakersfield got that honor. The museum in this tiny town was closed. A sign on its window informed that it remains open April through September. Rusted exhibits of the gold rush era stood outside the museum telling the story of the place. After a brief stop to soak in the history I was again behind the wheel. 

We climbed some more uphill from that point till we began to see the valley ahead and began the descent. At this point I was suddenly overcome with nostalgia. The view of the valley from the top so much reminded me of the slopes of the Khandala ghat approaching my home town Khopoli!

At the bottom of the mountains sat this town of Bodfish. I have several patients who live here and travel down the canyon to Bakersfield to receive medical care. It was the first time I was seeing their town. There were several small homes, a high school,some local diners, couple of small general stores, an antique store etc flanking the main road. 

A few miles down we entered the town of Lake Isabella. This had a bit more presence of businesses than Bodfish. There were a couple of gas stations, couple of larger grocery outlets, tyre repair shops, massage and beauty salons, veterinary clinics, laundromats, a few fast food restaurants and other things. I have many patients from here as well. I got a better sense of their surroundings. By this time we were getting hungry and decided to find something to eat. A piping hot pizza in the chilled weather seemed comforting. We found it to be a really good pizza. 

Leaving the town of Lake Isabella we headed briefly onto Highway 178 eastbound before turning on route 155 towards Wofford Heights to see the actual Lake Isabella and the dam built on it. 

History is bitter sweet for the locals. The building of the dam ensured water for the Central Valley but displaced residents of the area. The old towns of Kernville and Lake Isabella used to be where now the lake sits. They had to be moved to different locations. People had to relinquish their ranches, homes and land, many of them grudgingly, some of them forcibly! 

Today the lake is a pretty site and also a place for recreation. We saw some people enjoying in their boats and a few families gathered for a picnic. As the chill of the winter gets replaced with warmer temperatures there will be bigger crowds arriving to enjoy the picturesque location.

Sitting in one corner of the campgrounds adjoining the lake, off of Highway 155, is a small museum that houses exhibits representing the life of the local native tribes. The Paiute Nuui Cunni ! Last few times we visited the area this center was closed. This time we made it before they would close for the day. From woven baskets, handmade rugs, leather goods, stone tools, handmade jewelry, painted art to a wall full of books about their culture this place was a house of wonders. Some of the volunteers there were trying to put together the inventory. One of them greeted me as I walked in and for a moment was awestruck looking at my saree. She wouldn’t stop gushing at how beautiful it was and asked me if it was warm. I told her it was ok if she wanted to touch and feel it . “It is silk !” she exclaimed. My saree had made me welcome into this place and probably was in sync with all the handmade pieces of art that filled the place. 

We walked around the campground for a little bit taking in the views of the lake and surrounding mountains before getting back into the car.

We traced back our way through the towns of Lake Isabella and Bodfish with a quick stop at one of the gas stations to wipe clean the windshield of the car so it was easier to take pictures from the inside. 

Just past Havilah was a sign that read Breckenridge Road. This was an alternate route to get to Bakersfield. It was 42 miles to Bakersfield it said. The sign also read that 8 miles up, the road is closed during winter. I very much wanted to explore a new road but the sign was deterring. Just then in my rear mirror I saw a truck approaching . I signaled with my hand for it to stop. The driver pulled down his window. I asked if he knew if the Breckenridge road was open. Yes, he said, but that’s a longer route. I didn’t mind a longer route, just wanted to be sure it was open! He affirmed it would be open but added casually before leaving  “ you may see some snow “.  Fine. 

So we turned right as he carried on straight on the Caliente Bodfish road. This road was much narrower, allowing only one car at a time comfortably. But then no one was going to be choosing a slower road so we should be ok, I thought.

 One mile up the road we saw some snow on the sides. Another half a mile or so there was a bit of snow on the road. Then again dry road. Again a stretch of snow, then dry road. Abhay was getting increasingly concerned. Let’s turn back. I was in a mood for adventure. I tried to tell him these are just small sections of snow, we can make it. About 3 miles into the drive things began to get a bit more serious. There was debris on the road from rock slides and mud slides. A occasional fallen tree had been moved off the road allowing to pass. The stretches with snow and ice were getting longer. 

We stopped at one place on the ice and the car began to glide despite putting it in the parking gear. That really freaked Abhay. Let’s go back! It is icy! It is risky! Umm, we’ve come this far, we can make it as long as we don’t stop on ice. Let’s keep going, I tried to persuade him.

Seeing a turn-out on a dry patch we stopped to enjoy the view of the distant snow tops and the valley below. The panoramas from that place were really magnificent. Just then I saw a text from our son. Realizing that there is phone service I texted him back to keep him informed of our location, just in case we get stranded and a search crew was needed. No one would have guessed where we were because we had not told mom before leaving home. Now at least our son knew where to find us !

Another mile or so ahead we stopped on a dry section of road just before entering the next stretch of snow. To take pictures! All seemed fine! The car was parked, secured and safe. We were surrounded by the prettiest mountains and weather wasn’t freezing cold. The snow laden road was pristine. We took pictures of each other, front and back views of the saree, slo-mo video and all. And just as we were to return to the car …..boom… Abhay forgot he was walking on ice …..and next thing the phone in his hand flew into the bushes and he was flat, face down on the road ! And me frozen on the spot, too stunned and shocked! He stood up holding my hand and wiped off the snow from his trousers and jacket. He was fine he said as we walked to the car. Just then I noticed there was blood trickling down his nose! He couldn’t feel a thing! A tiny piece of skin had been scraped off by the rough icy surface as he fell over it. I wiped off the blood and looked for a band aid but there was none in the car. He kept insisting he is fine. I felt guilty that I didn’t caution him every minute to walk slowly.

One would think we would turn back at that point but we had come so far ! We should be able to make it! Soon we arrived at a juncture where it was no longer a thin layer of snow on the road. It was the beginning of a thick coat of snow on the road as well as on either side of it , on the trees and shrubs and rocks and everything. There was no sight of a dry patch ahead. Our four wheel drive had the capability to pass this much snow. But what if the road was closed ahead from a fallen tree or rock slide compelling us to turn back ? How could I maneuver to turn around on such narrow road in so much snow? What if we get stranded overnight and cant keep warm until rescued?  Even my stupidity would agree at this point that enough was enough ! We shouldn’t go ahead ! 

But wait ! Before we turn back at least let’s take some pictures with all the snow ! Where would we see so much snow again? By this time Abhay had had enough! No amount of my pleading could get him to say yes! It would either be nothing or at best a selfie before getting back into the driver’s seat! By now you may have guessed what I picked.

The question remained . How do I turn back ? There wasn’t enough room to maneuver where we stood. Had to take the car back in reverse to a wider area which was at least a quarter mile behind. The road was curvy and there was not much room to wiggle to avoid hitting the mountainside or the brush. I couldn’t do it without help. After much convincing Abhay agreed to get down and guide me to reverse the car. Once at the wide section I was able to make the U turn with multiple small back and forth turns under his close supervision. 

Oh well ! The Breckenridge Road was not meant to be this time , I thought to myself as I traced it back towards the main road. May be another time! Just then I saw the Sun beginning its descent behind the mountain and realized, we need to hurry ! Even the Caliente Bodfish road would be tricky to drive in the dark. We need to make it to Caliente before sunset. I didn’t say my thoughts aloud because I would get an earful . I just focused my gaze on the road and when possible on the sun and drove at the best possible speed that would be permissible on the road, not stopping as I normally would to appreciate a tree, a bird or a vista. 

We passed Caliente , drove down the slopes of the Tehachapi hills on freeway 58, entering the familiar landscape within the city of Bakersfield. The sun kept up the chat with me as Abhay snoozed in his seat. Don’t you leave without saying goodbye, I kept saying to the sun( don’t set while I don’t have you in my view) and he seemed to reply “I won’t, I promise. I will make sure also that even after I leave, my light will remain to guide you till you get home”. He kept his word!  I gazed till the last moment when he disappeared little by little behind the low hanging dense clouds and blew him a kiss as he took leave. Just a few minutes after that I was parked in the garage of our home. 

Mom was happy to see us. She had been waiting for me to make the sprouted matki usal. I changed out of the saree and chatted with both kids on FaceTime as I cooked the usal, catching up with them as both had been busy all week. They noticed Abhay’s nose and there came the whole story.

What a day it had been !! 

Saree for the adventure was a tussar in icy blue with a multi colored floral pattern woven with jamdani technique. I had certainly not envisioned an encounter with ice when I picked this in the morning.