The Big and The Ugly : Part 2

The Big 5

There is something magnificent about the Big Five that draws people to the jungles of Africa. Some of these are seen in bigger populations while some are extremely elusive. The elephants even though seen in larger numbers held on to our intrigue and awe every single time they made an appearance. Especially in Amboseli a herd of nearly 60-70 elephants walked in a rather disciplined row led by the matriarch as they crossed the road from one side to another. The family included members of a wide range of ages and sizes, and also temperaments. Some were solemn, some curious, some a bit aggressive, occasional noisy ones, a few tardy,some naughty, some shy, a couple of them that were deviant. The matriarch would turn back to round them all up and proceed towards the water hole. Not all elephants however hang out in big groups. We did come across loners now and then. Usually these were males, who either preferred being alone or were kicked out of the herd because of errant behavior. Especially maltreatment of the babies is not tolerated. The herd elders keep the babies in the center and under a watchful eye at all times. If you can’t be nice to them you can leave ! That’s the rule. 

In Amboseli Tommy got informed over the radio about a pride of lions spotted at a particular location. As we started our day we headed off in that direction. By the time we got there however the lions had gone into hiding in distant bushes. We waited half an hour or so and then drove away to see other things. Towards the close of the day Tommy got fresh update that the lions were out again. The sun was hanging low on the western horizon and twilight was fast approaching. Tommy hurried on the bumpy road to allow us catch a glimpse of the lions. And what a sight it was. First two male lions walking leisurely in the grasses. Further on three lionesses sitting relaxed in the meadow while three or four cubs played nearby. It was a magical moment. Tommy had risked being penalized for hanging out beyond the permitted time in the park beyond 6:30 pm. It was hard to say enough but then no matter how long we had stayed back watching this adorable Royal Family of the jungle it would still not be enough. Tommy raced from there to reach the gates of our lodge before 7 pm and heaved a sigh of relief once inside. The fines are heavy if rules are broken and he could have lost his license if cited. All was good.  He had given us a magnificent day.

Earlier in Nairobi the rhinos had given us a good view from close range. We saw a few more grazing on the plains near Lake Nakuru. A young one hanging out in the shadows of its mom was the highlight here. These African white rhinos had two horns, a smaller behind the bigger one in front. Our quest for the black rhinos at Ngorongoro crater remained unfulfilled. 

Wild buffalo herds were in plentiful at Ngorongoro crater grasslands. We also ran into a big herd of these near Lake Nakuru. These are one species that can scare the heck out of the lions if they decide to confront. No messing with them, the lions know that! 

The leopard is about the most elusive of all creatures in African jungles. We were extremely lucky to see one leopard in Masai Mara. First it was found hiding in a dense bush. As more vehicles gathered around it got up and tried walking out. The vehicles wouldn’t allow a single corner for it to be by itself. Not to worry! Before anyone could figure out the next move it had scaled up the trunk of a nearby tree and made itself comfortable on the high branches. Its beautiful silhouette could be seen by an eye that knew where to look. It could be easily missed by most. 

In contrast to this leopard, in Masai Mara a cheetah put out a rather leisurely appearance, not just by herself but with the delightful bonus of her brood of five cubs. She was letting them play in the meadows while she remained on high alert for the herd of elephants lurking nearby. They are known to trample on the cheetah cubs. She was unfettered by the attention from the safari guests.

It couldn’t be any better than this!